Choosing between artificial grass, natural sod, and a real lawn is one of the most practical decisions a Tempe homeowner makes. The vocabulary is confusing (the word 'turf' means both natural sod and synthetic grass), the climate is unforgiving (115-degree summers turn bermuda brown by June), and the stakes are real (a dog run that turns to mud, a yard that has to work for a sale, or a pool surround that stays cool and drains well). This guide walks through the honest differences between artificial grass and real grass, explains how to read a turf specification so you know what you are buying, and shows you how to compare quotes on the same product instead of price alone.
Whether you own a 1920s bungalow near Arizona State University, a 1950s ranch in central Tempe, a student rental downtown, or a family home in south Tempe, the same principles apply: artificial grass is not maintenance-free, real grass is not always the answer, and a turf installation company that tells you the truth about what works in your yard is worth more than one that sells fear. By the time you finish reading, you will know what questions to ask and what to get in writing.
Turf vs Artificial Grass: Is There a Difference?
The word 'turf' creates confusion because it means two different things. In everyday speech, 'turf' can refer to rolls of natural sod (living grass and soil), or it can mean synthetic turf (the plastic grass product). Landscape professionals use 'turf' to mean either one, which is why you will hear 'artificial turf', 'synthetic turf', and 'artificial grass' used interchangeably to describe the same thing: a manufactured product made of synthetic fibres, infill, and a backing layer. The key point is that there is no meaningful difference between 'turf' and 'artificial grass' when applied to synthetic products. They are the same material, called by different names.
What does matter is that landscape artificial grass and sports turf are engineered differently for their uses. Landscape turf is built for appearance and foot traffic in residential yards, with a softer feel and a natural look. Sports turf is built for high-impact play, with denser pile, heavier face weight, and infill that manages shock and drainage for athletic performance. Putting green turf is engineered to roll a ball to a precise speed and break. The right product depends entirely on what the yard will do. When you ask a turf installation company for a quote, ask what product they are specifying and why it matches your use. A good installer will explain the face weight, pile height, and infill in writing.
Artificial Grass vs Real Grass in Tempe: An Honest Comparison
In Tempe's climate, artificial grass and real grass each have genuine strengths and real limitations, and the choice depends on your yard and what you are willing to do. A natural bermuda lawn is beautiful when it thrives, requires no electricity or plastic, and some homeowners enjoy the rhythm of lawn care. It also needs regular watering (even in the off-season to keep the roots alive), mowing, fertilizing, and aeration. In full Phoenix sun, a bermuda lawn turns golden-brown by mid-June and stays dormant until October, leaving bare or straw-colored turf for months. If your yard is shaded by mesquites, palo verdes, or a house to the south, a healthy lawn is possible and often the better choice. If your yard is in full sun and you do not want to water and mow, artificial grass works. If you have dogs, artificial grass eliminates the mud and dust that turn a yard into a run, and it stops the urine burn that kills natural grass. The trade-off is that artificial grass is low-maintenance, not maintenance-free: it needs occasional rinsing to remove dust from monsoon storms, brushing to keep the pile upright, and infill top-up every few years as it settles.
Over time, the costs are different. Real grass costs less to install but requires water, equipment, fertilizer, and labour every year. Artificial grass costs more upfront but has no water bill, no mowing, and no chemical treatments. Neither one 'pays for itself' in a simple calculation, because the value depends on how long you stay, what your water costs, and what you value (a living lawn, a low-maintenance yard, or the water you do not use). Both last for years if installed and cared for properly. Real grass lasts as long as the soil and the climate allow; artificial grass typically lasts ten to fifteen years or longer depending on the product and use. The honest answer is: if your yard is in shade and you like lawn care, real grass makes sense. If you have a full-sun yard that has never held a lawn, if you have dogs, or if you want a yard that requires almost no upkeep, artificial grass is the right answer.
Turf vs Sod: When Natural Sod Is the Better Answer
Natural sod is rolls of living grass and soil that are laid like a carpet and root into your yard over a few weeks. Artificial grass is a synthetic product that is glued and fastened to a prepared base. They are completely different materials and are installed by different methods. The comparison matters because each is better for different situations. Natural sod is the right choice if your yard is in real shade and you want a living lawn, if you are on a tight budget and can do the watering yourself, if your HOA requires living grass (some do), or if you enjoy lawn care and want to maintain it yourself. Natural sod also establishes faster than seeding, which matters if you need a lawn ready in weeks instead of months. Artificial grass is the right choice if your yard is in full sun and does not hold a lawn, if you have dogs or heavy foot traffic, if you want to eliminate watering and mowing, or if you need the yard to be ready to use immediately after installation.
We install artificial grass. We do not install natural sod; that is a separate service that other landscapers provide. Part of giving honest advice is telling someone when sod is the better answer, even though we do not do that work. If your yard is shaded and you want a living lawn, or if you are on a tight budget, we will say so. If you decide artificial grass is right for your situation, we will give you a full specification in writing and do the work properly. If you have questions about whether sod might work in your yard, we can discuss it when you call for a free estimate.
Polyethylene vs Nylon vs Polypropylene Artificial Grass
Artificial grass fibres come in three main families, and the fibre type is one of the most important parts of the spec. Polyethylene is the most common fibre for landscape artificial grass. It is soft to the touch, looks natural, and holds up well to sun and foot traffic. Most residential yards, pet turf, and pool surrounds use polyethylene. Nylon is the most resilient and heat-tolerant fibre available. It is stiffer than polyethylene, does not flatten as easily, and performs better in extreme conditions. Nylon is used on putting greens, heavy-traffic commercial areas, and sports fields. It costs more than polyethylene. Polypropylene is the budget fibre. It is less durable, flattens more easily, and does not hold up as well to sun and wear. You will see polypropylene in very cheap roll products sold by the roll or online. It works for temporary applications or low-traffic areas, but it is not the right choice for a yard that gets regular use or full sun.
The fibre family tells you something about durability and performance, but it does not tell you everything. A high-quality polyethylene turf will outperform a low-quality nylon in many situations. The face weight (density), pile height, and infill matter just as much as the fibre itself. When you see a very cheap roll of turf, it is usually polypropylene with light face weight and thin pile. When you get a quote for artificial grass, ask what fibre is specified and why it is right for your use. A good installer will explain the choice in writing and be ready to show you samples.
Face Weight, Pile Height, Thatch and Backing: Reading a Turf Spec
Face weight is measured in ounces per square yard and tells you how much fibre is in the turf. A higher face weight means more fibres packed into the same area, which generally means the turf is denser and more durable. Common landscape turf ranges from 40 to 70 ounces per square yard; putting green turf is often higher. Face weight does not automatically mean 'better', a 50-ounce polyethylene turf can outperform a 60-ounce polypropylene turf, but within the same fibre family and product line, higher face weight usually means more durability and a lusher appearance. Pile height is the length of the fibres and is measured in fractions of an inch. Short pile (around 0.5 to 1 inch) is used on putting greens and pet turf because it is easy to clean and does not hide wear. Longer pile (1.5 to 2.5 inches) gives a fuller, more natural lawn look. Thatch is a curly under-layer of fibres that sits at the base of the pile and props the blades upright. Thatch hides wear patterns and foot traffic marks, which is why a turf with good thatch looks fresher longer. Backing is the layer underneath the fibres. Latex backing is common and affordable; polyurethane backing is more durable and better for wet environments like pool surrounds. The backing also determines permeability, how fast water drains through. Ask whether the backing is fully permeable or perforated, and ask for the drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot. A fully permeable backing is important for pet turf and areas where standing water is a concern.
When you get a quote, ask for these numbers in writing: the product name and manufacturer, the fibre type, the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in inches, the thatch description, the backing type and permeability rating, and the infill type and pounds per square foot. If a company cannot or will not give you these details, that is a red flag. A good turf installer will have this information on a spec sheet and will explain what each number means for your yard. You cannot compare two quotes fairly unless they are quoting the same product on the same spec.
The Best Artificial Grass for Dogs, Kids, Putting and Pools
The best artificial grass depends on what the yard will do. For pet turf and dog runs, choose a short, dense pile (0.5 to 1 inch) so urine drains through quickly and does not pool. The backing must be fully permeable or well-perforated so moisture does not sit under the turf. Infill matters: antimicrobial infill such as zeolite or a coated infill like Envirofill reduces odor and bacteria. Avoid long pile and latex-only backing on pet turf, because they trap moisture and odor. For playgrounds and school turf, softness and shock absorption are critical. The turf should be rated for the fall height of the equipment (how high children can fall), and the infill and padding must meet safety standards. Ask for documentation of the fall-height rating. For putting greens, use dedicated putting turf, not landscape grass. Putting turf is engineered for consistent roll and break, with short pile (around 0.375 inch) and a shaped base underneath. The base is as important as the turf itself; a proper putting green has a graded sub-base, drainage layer, and compacted base for consistent play. For pool surrounds, heat management and drainage are the priorities. Choose a turf rated for heat (lighter colours, heat-tolerant fibres), use a polyurethane backing for durability in wet conditions, and ensure the base is graded to drain away from the pool. Avoid dark colours and dense infills that absorb heat and become uncomfortable underfoot.
Materials like SYNLawn, TigerTurf, AstroTurf, and Envirofill are examples of products that exist in the market and can be sourced for different applications. The choice of material should be driven by your use, budget, and the specific performance you need. A good turf installer will show you samples, explain why a particular product fits your yard, and put the recommendation in writing.
How to Choose, and What to Get in Writing
Choosing artificial grass comes down to getting the right product on the right base and comparing quotes fairly. Start by getting a free estimate so the installer can measure your yard and understand your use (dogs, kids, full sun, shade, drainage issues). Then ask for a written specification that includes: the turf product name and manufacturer, the fibre type (polyethylene, nylon, or polypropylene), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in inches, the thatch layer description, the backing type and permeability rating, the infill type and pounds per square foot, the base material and depth, and how the base will be compacted. Ask whether a weed barrier will be used, how seams will be joined, and whether the installer will handle grading to fix drainage problems. Ask for a certificate of insurance naming general liability and workers' compensation. Ask for references and photos of finished work in similar yards. Once you have two or three quotes with the same spec, you can compare them fairly on price and on the installer's answers to your questions. The cheapest quote is not always the best; an installer who skips the base prep, uses thin pile, or cannot explain the spec is cutting corners that will show up in a year or two.
Tempe Turf Installation is fully insured and will give you a written spec with face weight, pile height, and infill. We handle the site measurement and base preparation, and we will tell you honestly if your yard has a drainage problem that needs to be fixed first. See our pricing page for ranges and to understand how we measure, and call us at (520) 482-0822 to discuss your yard.