Artificial grass in Tempe lives or fails beneath the surface. The infill, base preparation, drainage system and finishing details determine whether your turf will look natural for years, shed water after a monsoon, resist odor in a dog run, or develop puddles, seams that lift and bare spots by summer. This guide walks you through each layer and the specifications you should see in writing before installation begins. Whether you are installing turf in a residential yard, a pet area, around a pool, or on a commercial property, understanding what goes under and around the grass helps you ask the right questions and verify that the work is done properly.
Tempe's heat, dust storms and intense sun demand a foundation that works. The soil here is often dense, drainage is not guaranteed, and a shallow or uncompacted base will shift under the Arizona climate. This guide is written for homeowners and property managers in Tempe and the surrounding areas who want to know what separates a solid installation from a shortcut, and what to ask for in writing.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the material spread across the turf after it is laid. It serves four jobs: it props up the grass fibres so they stand upright and look natural, it protects the turf backing from ultraviolet light, it adds weight so the turf stays in place in wind, and it helps with drainage and moisture movement. The most common infill is silica sand, a basic mineral ballast that has been used in artificial grass for decades. Silica sand is affordable and effective, but it is angular and can feel gritty underfoot, and it does not address pet odor or heat.
Coated sand infills round the grains and often add color or antimicrobial treatments. These products are gentler on bare feet and can reduce the feel of loose sand shifting under the turf. Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs and neutralizes ammonia and other odor compounds, making it popular in pet turf and dog run installations. Specialized coated infills, such as Envirofill, combine cooling minerals, antimicrobial properties and sometimes zeolite in a single product designed to reduce surface heat and odor. Crumb rubber (recycled tire material) is used in sports fields and playgrounds where impact absorption and drainage are priorities, but it is not typical in residential yards. The right infill for your project depends on the turf product, the use case (pets, play, general landscape), and your budget. Always ask your installer which infill they specify and why.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill quantity is measured in pounds per square foot. This figure tells you how much material will be spread across the turf to achieve the right density and performance. A typical range for residential artificial grass is 2 to 4 pounds per square foot, depending on the pile height, fibre type and the turf manufacturer's recommendation. Pet turfs and sports turfs often call for higher rates, sometimes 4 to 6 pounds per square foot, because the extra weight and density help with durability and odor control. The infill amount is not a guess; it should be specified in writing by your installer before work begins.
Too little infill is a common shortcut in budget installations. When infill is sparse, the grass fibres do not stand up properly, the backing is exposed to UV damage, and the turf can shift or wrinkle underfoot. Over time, sparse infill also fails to protect the backing from the Arizona sun, leading to deterioration and seam separation. Conversely, overfilling adds unnecessary cost without benefit. The right amount is determined by the turf product and the use case. Ask your installer for the infill weight in writing, and ask them to explain why that amount is appropriate for your turf and yard. This is one of the easiest specifications to verify and one of the most common places where corners are cut.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
What goes under the artificial grass is as important as the grass itself. The process begins with removal. If you have an existing bermuda lawn or old turf, it must be removed completely, including the root system and thatch layer. Leaving roots or old turf beneath new grass traps moisture and creates a soft, unstable base. Once the old lawn is cleared, the soil is excavated to the depth required by the base specification, typically 3 to 4 inches. The excavation allows you to create proper grading and slope so water runs away from the house and any pool or structure on the property.
After excavation, a weed barrier (landscape fabric) is laid if the site conditions warrant it. This prevents weeds from growing up through the base and the turf, though it is not always necessary and can slow drainage in some soils. Next comes the free-draining base layer, usually decomposed granite or crushed base rock, which is spread and compacted firmly in lifts (thin layers) with a plate compactor. For pet areas, patios, or play zones, an optional draining underlay or pad is then installed on top of the base to provide additional cushioning and drainage. Finally, the turf is laid over the prepared base. On hard surfaces such as concrete or balconies, the turf is never glued flat to the slab; instead, a draining underlay is used and edge drainage is installed to prevent water from pooling beneath the turf.
Base Prep on Tempe Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Tempe soil varies widely, but much of it is dense, poorly draining clay and caliche (a hard mineral layer) mixed with sand. This combination is common in the ranch neighborhoods of central and south Tempe and around the lake communities. When soil does not drain well, water sits instead of percolating, and artificial grass installed on an uncompacted or poorly graded base will develop puddles, soft spots, and odor problems that no amount of infill can fix. Base preparation is the foundation of a durable installation.
The process requires excavation to remove the existing lawn and to reach a depth where a proper base can be built, typically 3 to 4 inches. The excavated area is then graded with a slope that directs water away from the house, the pool, and any structures. Crushed base rock or decomposed granite is spread in thin lifts (usually 1 to 2 inches at a time) and compacted firmly with a plate compactor. This compaction is critical; an uncompacted base shifts and settles under the Arizona sun and the weight of foot traffic, causing dips, wrinkles and puddles. The compaction process is not visible once the turf is laid, but it is one of the most important steps in the installation. If a yard has a history of standing water, poor drainage, or a water table problem, the drainage issue must be addressed first through grading, a French drain, or other site work. If the underlying water problem cannot be solved, the turf installation may not be the right solution for that yard.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial turf has a backing that allows water to pass through. The backing is either perforated (with small holes punched through it) or fully permeable (woven or manufactured to allow water flow across its entire surface). The drainage rate of a backing is measured in gallons per hour per square foot (GPH per sq ft). A higher rate means water passes through faster. Most residential turfs drain between 15 and 30 gallons per hour per square foot, which is adequate for normal rainfall. However, drainage rate is only part of the story. A fast-draining turf backing will fail if the base beneath it is compacted clay or ungraded soil that does not drain. The water has to go somewhere, and if the base is not permeable and sloped correctly, water will pool on top of the turf or beneath it.
For pet areas and play areas, where heavy water use and Tempe's monsoon downpours are a real concern, a draining underlay or pad installed between the base and the turf provides an additional layer of water management and also adds cushioning for impact. On hard surfaces such as concrete, a draining underlay is essential to prevent water from pooling beneath the turf and creating odor or mold. The underlay also provides some give underfoot, which is important for comfort and safety. Ask your installer for the drainage rate of the turf backing in writing, and confirm that the base is graded and compacted to drain properly. Together, these two systems (turf backing and base) determine whether water moves through the system or gets trapped.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The details that separate a professional installation from a rushed one are visible at the seams, edges and corners. Seams are where two pieces of turf are joined together. A proper seam is created by aligning the grain of the turf so the pile direction is consistent across the joint, laying a seam tape (a waterproof adhesive strip) along the underside of the seam, and pressing the turf firmly onto the tape. The seam is then secured with nails or staples driven through the backing at the correct spacing (typically every 3 to 4 inches) to prevent the turf from shifting. A seam done well is nearly invisible; a seam done poorly will be visible as a raised ridge or a gap that collects dirt and debris.
Edges are where the turf meets the perimeter of the yard, a patio, pavers, or a pool deck. Edges should be cut clean and tight to the adjacent surface, with no loose turf hanging over. Bender board (a flexible edging strip) or a secured perimeter keeps the turf from rolling or lifting at the edge. After installation, the turf is power broomed to stand the fibres upright and to spread the infill evenly across the surface. This step is not cosmetic; it ensures that the infill is distributed properly and that the turf looks full and natural. A lifted seam, a visible gap at an edge, or turf that has shifted tells you the installation was not finished properly. These issues can be repaired, but they should not happen in the first place.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before any work begins, you should receive a written specification that describes exactly what will be installed and how. This specification is your protection and your reference if questions arise during or after the installation. A complete spec should include the turf product name and fibre type (polyethylene, polypropylene, or nylon), the face weight (measured in ounces per square yard), the pile height (the length of the grass blade), the backing type and its drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and the amount in pounds per square foot, the base material and depth (typically 3 to 4 inches compacted), the weed barrier specification if one is used, the seam method and edge treatment, cleanup and haul-off, and the workmanship warranty period. Do not accept a vague estimate; ask for these details in writing.
The written spec also protects you because it creates a clear record of what was promised. If a seam fails, if the turf does not drain, or if the infill settles unevenly, you have a document that shows what the installation was supposed to include. A reputable turf installation company will provide this spec as a matter of course and will invite you to ask questions about any line item. For a free on-site estimate and a written specification tailored to your yard and your needs, contact Tempe Turf Installation at (520) 482-0822 or request a free estimate. See the pricing page for typical ranges, and remember that every yard is different and every price is based on a site visit and a measurement.